The Modern Pantry

I may be a bit late to the Modern Pantry party, but I found this good thing really was worth the wait.

When I first arrived in my flip-flops at the cavernous Finsbury Square branch of The Modern Pantry, I felt more than a little out of place. “Well, this is posh,” I thought, as I pulled my crop top down a little lower. The white table cloths and wooden panelling suggest the place is far more stuffy than it is, because it’s actually rather laid back. Also, the toilets are really funky with the most futuristic hand-dryers you’ve ever seen.

The staff were attentive without being overbearing (tick, tick) and were always on hand to top up waters – although I suspect this had something to do with the fact that my friend and I only had a two-hour slot.

I took ages deciding what I wanted from the menu because it’s not your average brunch fare, as you can see…


When dining out, my mantra is, “Choose something I wouldn’t make at home.” However, seeing as my repertoire has shrunk down to about five dishes recently, this barely limited my choices.

My friend took the lead and chose the Two poached eggs & toast with crispy halloumi, buttered spinach and lemongrass roast vine tomatoes, and I eventually went for the Sweetcorn, feta, Medjool date and spring onion waffle with maple syrup and smoked streaky bacon. And ohmadgod it was so good!


How on earth I managed to eat it slowly, I have no idea but I made it last right up until the millionth water top-up, which we eventually took as our cue to leave. I would have liked a little more feta to contrast with the sweetness of the syrup and sweetcorn, but that’s just me being super nit-picky and a ridiculously avid fan of the salty/sweet combination that has remained popular since Heston’s revolutionary Bacon ice-cream. If you too like that combo, I strongly recommend adding the smoked streaky bacon.

Out of intrigue (and a little bit/lot of greed), we had a side order of Cassava chips served with pineapple ketchup and crème fraîche. Cassava, it turns out, is a rather tasteless root vegetable with the texture of a parsnip. The pineapple ketchup was, therefore, a welcome addition.

Our visit to The Modern Pantry made us feel full without being stuffed and rather happy that our purses weren’t as light as we’d thought they’d be when we first walked in. All in all, I would recommend it…flip-flops and all.


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